The horizon is not the journey's end

Why do we travel? Is it so that we add to our vicarious hoard of memories, mine is bigger than yours? Do we digitize our journeys so that the imagery marks the outer boundaries of our lives? The kingdom of my imagination is larger than yours? Like airline tags on luggage that announce, yes, we have travelled. Or do we travel to truly understand the splendor of this planet of ours, to understand the diversity of the human experience? When we journey this way we truly become one with life itself in all its magnificence, crossing the limitations of prejudice, shedding the safety of the familiar and willingly accepting the unfamiliar. 

GUESTSPEAK - nice things that guests say about us

"We spent a fabulous couple of nights here at the end of a 5 week India trip with our kids. We wanted a relaxing resort with a nice room and swimming pool at an affordable price. Kayaloram was the perfect choice."

"The lake view cottages are gorgeous in old Keralan style - very tasteful with wonderful outdoor bathroom. The view was stunning, cool breezes off the lake and a hammock to lie in. Perfect.
It is truly magical here and if you are on a limited budget it is somewhere that is affordable with good facilities."

"This was a lovely resort..especially after our previous 5 days! A haven of well kept calm on the river. Rooms were clean but also quite low ceilings, I know several of the group kept banging their heads! We loved it."

"We stayed at this hotel on my wifes 50th birthday, as part of a fourteen day tour of the south of India. The managerment was nice enough to give us the room facing the water together with supplying us with a birthday cake."

"Loved the stay in this place. Lake view rooms are the best. The highlight is when you open the door of your room in the morning, you would be pleased with the gorgeous lake view. Highlights - clean room and well maintained facility, Awesome food though it is slightly expensive."

"Overall experience has been good. Staff has been friendly and you would be attended to all your needs. Ayurvedic massage is very relaxing. Like the roof free bathroom with view of the stars. Amazing."

“Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

A lone fisherman on the Vembanad Lake with Pathiramanal Island in the  background an hours boat ride from Kayaloram.

The seat of contemplation has moved

We call this our 'seat of contemplation'. Overlooking the Vembanad lake, the seat has been known to have sparked off many a poem, song and lent sustenance to many a romance, and some guests have found themselves lighter of the cares of the world that they brought with them. Situated in front of our lake view cottages, at dawn you can watch the sun come up over the horizon sipping your morning cuppa. Fishermen row their canoes, gathering their nets filled with the nights catch. Later in the day, motor launches, barges laden with produce and houseboats with tourists will pass by. Around noon birds will perch on the ends of stilts that stick out of the water, patiently scanning the water for signs of food. One can even string up a hammock between the trees, get yourself a cool drink and immerse yourself in a favorite book. Or just relax and soak in the peace and quite with only a gentle afternoon breeze for company. Come evening and after the sun has set, the lawns are ideal for a candlelight dinner. Our resort manager will be happy to set a table for you. On prior intimation barbecues, ethnic music and dance performances can be organized here.

We have this habit of moving this bench around, to kind of get another perspective on the world as it were. But for everyone who stays with us, this is one of the most beautiful views to wake up to.

From our chef's cookbook - Scrumptious Grilled Prawns

Ingredients:


1 lb shelled King Prawns (or Jumbo Shrimp)
2 cloves minced garlic
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon peanut butter
1 small minced onion
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Preparation:


In a large bowl, mix olive oil, onions, and garlic. Add prawns, tossing them to coat. Leave these to marinade at least three hours in refrigerator.

Grill prawns for about five minutes, turning once. Arrange neatly on a serving platter. Prawns cook very quickly, so be sure to watch them.

The remaining ingredients will be used as a dipping sauce for the grilled prawns. In a small bowl, whisk the peanut butter, lemon juice, black pepper, and kosher salt and transfer to a serving bowl. Place in the center of your prawn platter served with boiled Veg as well as Butter Rice.

Theyyam is performed between mid-October /mid-November) and May/mid-June. This is the period between the completion of the year’s harvest and preparations for the next. This period for Theyyam is also the time for prayers for a good harvest, prosperity and general social amiability.

Malabar's dazzling folk art - Theyyam

Theyyam is a vibrant and hugely popular Hindu ritual form of worship, rich in customs that date several thousand years and is mostly prevalent in the northern district of Malabar. Its rituals and stage craft also make it one of the most fascinating theatrical arts of India.
It is estimated that are 450 Theyyam forms, where a male performer dons the guise of a deity and propitiates the gods through possessed dancing. Theyyam rituals are vibrant expressions of the ‘Bhagvati’ or ‘Mother Goddess’ cult of worship and contain elements of spirit-worship, the worship of ancestors, animism and dendrolatry, serpent-worship and the worship of village deities.

Performances are a combination of folk musical instruments, vocal recitations, dance, symbolic facial make up and vibrant costumes. This primordial ritualistic art demands long hours of preparation before the actual performance. The staging area of Theyyam is usually amidst a temple grove known as ‘kaavu’.  Theyyam is also performed in homes and in paddy fields by erecting a temporary staging area.

Typically a dancer accompanied by drummers and other folk instruments as a prelude to a performance will recite the lyrics of a ritual song narrating myths and legends of the deity of the shrine or the folk deity to be propitiated.  The dancer will then don his colorful facial make up and costumes and return to the performing area.

The performance begins with the dancer holding a mock sword and shield in his hands, circumambulating the shrine and then running into the courtyard and dance to the accompaniment of folk instruments. There are different patterns of face-painting, mostly composed of intricate symbols in primary and secondary colours to emphasize stylization in the dances.

The hood, headdress, breastplate, bracelets, garlands and fabric of attire of each Theyyam character are distinctive and meticulously crafted. Colorful costumes made out of cutting and painting coconut sheaths in black, white and red patterns, fresh coconut fronds to form skirts, fashioning breasts for female characters out of dry coconut shells and a sash of red cloth around the waist completes the ensemble.

Theyyam artistes are exclusively male. It is not a profession or calling that can be adopted. Specific social castes hold the exclusive right to perform the role of certain deities. An artist's shrine rights are always inherited from the mother's family and when he marries, he also acquires the shrine rights of his wife's family.
All artistes share a common training and tradition in which the process of becoming the deity is achieved after intense mental, physical and spiritual preparation. They are required to intimately study the rituals and character of every deity, know how make the headdresses and costumes of all the deities, learn all the symbols that constitute facial and body makeup and techniques of application, sing, play the drums, and know the stories. Every deity's physical appearance conforms to an image envisaged centuries ago in the dream or vision of a respected guru and handed down.

        "GOD IS ABSENCE. GOD IS THE SOLITUDE OF MAN." 
                                                                                                                          - Jean Paul Sartre

 

Kayaloram - lakeside serenity

View of an open shower

View of a toilet

Interior of a cottage

View of the pool, the pool view cottages and the lake view cottages

Paved path leading to the pool and the cottages

A small wooden bridge at the entrance

Lake view cottages

From our chef's cookbook

Sweet mixed vegetable pickle

Ingredients:
2 1/2 kgs cauliflower, carrots and turnips
200 grams sugar
100 grams salt
30 grams ground spices
20 grams red chili pepper
60 grams mustard powder
30 grams ginger
15 grams garlic
100 grams salt

1 teaspoon glacial acetic acid (6 grams)
1/2 litre Mustard oil

Method:
Wash, peel and cut the vegetables (carrots into long slices, cauliflower into medium pieces, round medium slices of turnip).
Blanch the vegetables in hot water for 10 to 15 minutes: drain.
Grind ginger and garlic to a fine paste and fry in 1 cup of hot oil till golden brown.
Remove from the fire, add all the spices and mix well.
Prepare the sugar syrup of (in half or less than that amount of water than the sugar) one to two-thread consistency.
Mix glacial acetic acid and syrup into fried garlic and ginger mixed with spices.
Cook for 5 minutes.
Add all the vegetables, cook till it leaves its oil.
Cool, put in a jar and keep it for 10 days before using.

Skin care from leftovers

There’s more than enough of the stuff that we consume that ends up being dumped on this hapless planet of ours. How about making gainful use of our leftovers for a change and in the process being kind to our bodies? It’s a win win situation for everyone concerned.

Pumpkin Enzyme Masque
Pumpkin helps fight dry skin with Vitamins A and C, as well as zinc and beneficial alpha-hydroxy acids. It is essential that you use homemade pumpkin purée so that essential enzymes are not lost.
Ingredients:
¼ cup pumpkin purée
1 tbsp plain yogurt
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
3 tsp honey
Juice of 1/2 a lemon

Method:
Combine all the ingredients together in a blender or with a wooden spoon. Apply a thick layer all over your face, being careful to avoid the eyes and mouth. Keep it on your face for about 10 minutes and then gently remove with a wash cloth and warm soapy water.


Homemade Cranberry Lip Gloss
Ingredients:
1 tbsp almond oil
1 tsp plain yogurt
1 tsp honey
1 tsp petroleum jelly
10 fresh cranberries

Method:
1. Heat in a water bath until the mixture begins to boil.
2. Stir gently to mash berries and let sit for five minutes.
3. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve.


Pomegranate Body Scrub
Rough Pomegranate seeds are a potent dose of antioxidants and good for exfoliating dry skin and bringing smooth, younger looking skin to the surface. Start with an oil base, add raw sugar, and honey. Add fragrance with orange peel and of course, a good dose of pomegranate seeds.

Ingredients:
2 tbsp avocado oil
2 tbsp raw sugar
2 tbsp honey
1 tsp orange peel
1 tbsp pomegranate seeds

Method:
Combine mixture completely. Apply to your skin with a wash cloth or luffa. Gently scrub your face and then rinse with warm water.



Cinnamon and Nutmeg Acne Masque
Nutmeg has anti-inflammatory qualities so it helps to calm flare-ups as well as reduce redness of acne scars. Cinnamon is a natural exfoliant as well and known for its antiseptic qualities. Combined with moisturizing honey, it serves as a balm to tender skin.
Ingredients:
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp honey

Method:
Combine into a thick paste. Apply to your face for half an hour and then rinse off with warm water. Moisturize as per usual afterwards.

"Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life." - Jack Kerouac

The seat of contemplation

We call this our 'seat of contemplation'. Overlooking the Vembanad lake, the seat has been known to have sparked off many a poem, song and lent sustenance to many a romance, and some guests have found themselves lighter of the cares of the world that they brought with them. Situated in front of our lake view cottages, at dawn you can watch the sun come up over the horizon sipping your morning cuppa. Fishermen row their canoes, gathering their nets filled with the nights catch. Later in the day, motor launches, barges laden with produce and houseboats with tourists will pass by. Around noon birds will perch on the ends of stilts that stick out of the water, patiently scanning the water for signs of food. One can even string up a hammock between the trees, get yourself a cool drink and immerse yourself in a favorite book. Or just relax and soak in the peace and quite with only a gentle afternoon breeze for company. Come evening and after the sun has set, the lawns are ideal for a candlelight dinner. Our resort manager will be happy to set a table for you. On prior intimation barbecues, ethnic music and dance performances can be organized here.

      For information on fascinating backwater cruise packages on ethnic houseboats, do get in touch with us @:
                                       
                                  +91 0484 2364480 /sales@mirresort.in /sales1@mirresorts.in
                                                                  www.mirresorts.in
                                              Follow us on: www.facebook.com /mirresorts

"Throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

A backwater canal near the Kayaloram Lake Heritage Resort

In the course of your stay with us at the Kayaloram Lake Heritage Resort if you would like to take a trip to Artunkal, please do speak with the resort manager and he will make the necessary arrangements. If you have any queries about the Alleppey region or the resort itself do contact us @ :

                        +91 0484 2364480 / sales@mirresorts.in / sales1@mirresorts.in
                                                           www.mirresorts.in
                                                           www.facebook.com/mirresorts

The beach at Arthunkal

A statue of St.Sebastian being taken out in a procession

The feast of St.Sebastian - Arthunkal

Arthunkal is synonymous with its church that has a Roman martyr named St.Sebastian as its patron. The feast of St.Sebastian is a grand celebration that stretches over two weeks in January starting from the 20th January. Devotees from all over Kerala visit the church. A procession carrying a statue of St.Sebastian from the church to the beach opposite and back, is the most prominent ritual on the occasion. Interestingly, every year an eagle is seen hovering overhead in the course of the procession. The eagle has also become a part of the legend of St.Sebastian as the guardian saint of the village.
On the first day of the feast, the doors of the church are opened at dawn and thousands of devotees, includung pilgrims from the Hindu temple of Sabarimala throng the church to pay homage to St.Sebastian. It is believed that the saint has the power to heal the maimed, crippled and those with mental disorders. Many devotees express their gratitude by crawling on their knees, a ritual known as 'Urulunercha', on the road leading in from the beach to the church. Many also make offerings of replicas of metal bells and arrows.

A child leaves the new Arthunkal church after prayer

interior detail new Arthunkal church

The new church at Arthunkal

View through a corridor in the old church at Arthunkal

Detail on a wall in the old church at Arthunkal

Interior old Arthunkal church

Arthunkal church - the legend

Arthunkal is a small, sleepy fishing village 22 kilometres north of Alleppey and also one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Kerala among both Christians and Hindus. The Arthunkal church was built by the earliest Portuguese missionaries to the area and has a fascinating history attached to it. The church was rebuilt in 1584 under a vicar named Jacoma Fenicio, whom devotees claim, possessed magical powers to heal body and mind. Devotees fondly refer to him as 'Arthunkal Veluthachan' which in English translates as 'the fair skinned father of Arthunkal'. Father Fenicio died in 1632. Eight years after his death, the church was rebuilt again. In 1647 the idol of St.Sebastian, executed on the orders of the Roman emperor for embracing the christian faith, depicting the saint with arrows stuck all over his bleeding body was sculpted in Milan and placed in the church. It is believed that the saint has the power to cure the the maimed and crippled and those with mental disorders. The church is also an example of the early church architecture in Kerala.

Kerala history

The Kerala coast has been the point of entry into India for Christianity and Islam, both finding amiable acceptance among the local population. Both religions in Kerala have in many ways been influenced by local traditions in architecture, iconography and rituals. Today you will find that Kerala is perhaps one the most secular states in India. As a consequence of this history, in the course of your journeys around Kerala, you will find many religious sites of great antiquity, churches temoples and mosques. The church at Arthunkal is one such monument.

Serenity

"Journey with me to a true commitment to our environment.
 Journey with me to the serenity of leaving to our children the planet in  equilibrium"  -Paul Tsongas

The Alleppey backwaters at sunset

COCHINSHOOTER'S BUTTERFLY PICTURES

Cochinshooter in Kayaloram

A guest who likes to call himself 'Cochinshooter' stayed with us at the Kayaloram Lake Heritage Resort
in a lake view cottage. This is what he has to say about his experience:

Lake view cottages

"When my college mate from California decided to come to Kerala for Ayurvedic treatment, he was keen on spending time on a houseboat in Alappuzha. I was happy to oblige him. After his treatment was over, I booked him in Kayaloram, a delightful little resort by the side of the Vembanad Lake. The location could not be better, and I highly recommend the lake - side rooms, which come at a higher price. The buildings have that inimitable traditional wooden architecture of Kerala. They arranged a backwater cruise that was excellent, with a sumptuous seafood lunch thrown in on the boat. I was looking forward to the resort's advertised butterfly garden, but was disappointed to learn that a tree that was the main butterfly attractor had died recently. I urged the manager to plant another tree of the same species and he promised to do so. However, the garden still had plenty of butterfly magnets left, as you can see from these photos which I took."

Kerala travel tips - 


Money - While traveling in Kerala, there is no limit to the amount of foreign currency that visitors can keep with them.

Banks - All nationalized banks are open for transaction from 10:00 to 14:00 hrs on weekdays and 10:00 to 12:00 hrs on Saturdays with Sundays being holidays . Most of the private banks provide transaction services between 8 AM to 8 PM.

Credit Cards -Most hotels, restaurants, shopping centers, and malls honor major credit cards.

Currency -The Indian Rupee (INR) is the prevalent currency in Kerala.

Best times to visit - The best time to visit Kerala is during the months of October to April and during monsoons, starting from June, for Ayurveda rejuvenation programs. Between the months of December – February, the weather is hot, sunny and dry with average 30 degree celsius (86 F) temperatures. You’ll find the biggest crowds from end December to mid January. From March the temperature and humidity increases in the build up to the monsoon, which arrives with heavy rains in June. This is considered the best time for Ayurvedic treatments, but not for beach holidays.

Clothes and accessories – Loose cotton outfits, hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen lotion. Advisable to carry an umbrella as well. Wear soft cotton clothing on the beaches. For the hill stations carry light warm clothing as the nights can get chilly. Winters on the Western Ghat mountains are cold.

Food - Since Kerala is one of the most popular tourist destinations in India, all major restaurants and hotels offer a variety of cuisines including continental, Chinese, Indian, and traditional Kerala dishes.

Drugs -Possession of drugs is a criminal offence and punishable under law.

Dress code in temple -Footwear inside the temple and entry into the sanctum sanctorum is prohibited in all temples. The customs and codes of conduct and dress in temples across Kerala vary. Many temples do not allow access to non-Hindus. Shirts for men and pants are banned from some temples and allowed in some others. Where they are forbidden, men wear sarongs and women, in saris, half-saris or long skirts.

Nudity - Nudity is not allowed in public places nor is it permitted on the beaches. All visitors, but particularly women should dress modestly when travelling in Kerala. It is fine to wear bikinis at the beach resorts, but away from there you must wear loose clothes that cover your shoulders and knees to avoid stares and offence. On remote beaches and around the backwaters  it’s best to cover up to swim by wearing a tshirt and sarong or a pair of long shorts.

Ayurvedic treatment- Should you wish to avail of treatment, ensure that you check in to an authorized center.

Wildlife sanctuaries - Prior permission has to be obtained from the administrative authority of the sanctuary before visiting.

Smoking - Smoking is banned in public places of Kerala.

Permission for photography – Advisable to check at locations  before you start taking pictures.

Tipping - A fair tip would be around 100 rupees per person per day if you are satisfied. If you have had a long journey, you could tip the driver a little extra If you use the services have the same driver/ guide for your entire stay the tip is best offered at the end of your tour.